Tales of Asia - Lost in Penang Malaysia

Greetings truth seekers,

February 22nd 2007 and it was off to Penang Malaysia for nine days to celebrate Chinese New Year and my birthday on February 24.

Penang, the Pearl of the Orient, is an interesting fusion of East and West. The state embraces modern day living while retaining its traditions and old world charm which are reflected in its harmonious multiracial population and well preserved heritage buildings. Long regarded as the food capital of Malaysia, it also entices visitors with its beautiful coasts and delightful cuisines.

Penang needs little introduction to many visitors to Malaysia, having long been known as one of Southeast Asia's finest destinations. Penang's outstanding beaches and exotic sights have made it one of the most popular destinations in the region.

I stayed at the G Hotel on Gurney Drive. It's convenient location overlooks Penang's most famous boulevard, Gurney Drive. The location is right next to a large shopping centre, Gurney Plaza and directly across the road from the beach. Luckily for me there were no tsunami's forecast as this was one of the areas that was hit two years ago during that Asian disaster.

As fabulous as its beaches are, some of Penang's deeper mysteries should also be experienced.

The People -

Cultures have been meeting and mixing in Malaysia since the very beginning of its history. More than fifteen hundred years ago Malays welcomed traders from China and India. With the arrival of gold and silks, Buddhism and Hinduism also came to Malaysia. A thousand years later, Arab traders arrived in Malacca and brought with them the principles and practices of Islam. By the time the Portuguese arrived in Malaysia, the empire that they encountered was more cosmopolitan than their own.

The Food -

Malaysia's gastronomic heritage has drawn from each of the constituent cultures of Malaysia as well as from neighbouring states to produce what many people consider to be the most delicious cuisine in the entire world. The internationally-renowned cuisine of China's Canton and that of southern India are significant sources of Malaysia's culinary heritage, as is the sublime cuisine of Thailand. Fresh tropical fruits and succulent Malaysian seafood are featured ingredients, and the chilies and curries of India and Thailand form the basis of spicy preparations. Coconut milk is ubiquitous in Malaysia, imparting a delicious smoothness to curries and other dishes.

The mainstay of every Malaysian meal is rice. At each meal, a generous helping accompanies a selection of dishes, including fish, seafood, vegetables, and poultry. Beef is conspicuously absent, as it is across much of Asia. Individual recipes vary widely from state to state. Basic ingredients may be the same, but the method of cooking and accompanying dishes changes with each state's own tastes and special produce.

Breakfast is a major meal of the day, not a neglected snack. Dine on fragrant nasi kandar, fish curry served with meat in chili sauce and boiled eggs. Or try the nasi dagang, glutinous rice cooked in coconut milk, served with fish curry, coconut sambal, and cucumber pickle.

Excellent and inexpensive food can be obtained virtually anywhere in Malaysia, largely because of the strength and ubiquity of food stalls, often called hawker food. Whether it be in villages, small towns, or big cities, visitors can find stalls offering mouth-watering treats. Dining at a cart or streetside stand may sound plain and piecemeal, but in Malaysia eating food at the roadside stalls is a much-loved practice. The best stalls are as popular and as crowded as any permanent restaurant--VWs and BMWs are equally likely to be parked close by, and their owners rubbing shoulders in the long line. Some stalls are open from morning to evening, while others are open from evening to dawn. Others are open around the clock, seven days a week.

Sightseeing -

Kek Lok Si Temple - at Air Itam, is reputed to be the most beautiful and largest Buddhist temple complex in Southeast Asia. Its seven-story pagoda, over 90 feet high, is a harmonious blend of Chinese, Thai, and Burmese architecture and craftsmanship.

Wat Chayamangkalaram Temple - This Buddhist temple of Thai architecture houses a magnificent gold-plated reclining Buddha that is said to be the third largest in the world. The niches behind the statue house urns containing the ashes of devotees

Fort Cornwallis - the fort was built on the site of Sir Francis Light's historic landing in 1786. Originally a wooden stockade, it is now a concrete structure and currently houses cannons, a history gallery, cafe, handicraft and souvenir centre as well as an open air ampi-theatre.

Chinatown - large and well preserved, its numerous clan houses, shophouses and temples provide a fascinating insight into the lifestyle of early Chinese immigrant settlers who came to Penang in the 1800s.

Little India - this quaint Indian town dates back over two centuries and includes the 167 year old Sri Mahamariamman Temple. Worth browsing for the pre-war terrace buildings which housed restaurants, jewellery and textile shops, dress retailers, music stores, Barbers as well as shops selling spices, sundries and cutlery.

Batu Ferringhi - this village houses a world renowned beach retreat. Its beautiful coastline, budget inns and five star hotels as well as its golden beaches make it an ideal choice for a holiday getaway.

Penang Butterfly Farm - this well-planned butterfly farm is home to hundreds of species of butterflies and insects. One will be truly amazed with the number of butterflies fluttering in the air. A subterranean subway made of stone's lead a visitor to a live scorpions pit. The farm abounds with beautiful gardens, waterfalls and ponds which add beauty and splendour to the farm. Be careful though, foreign visitors are charged twice as much as locals for entry. As I was with three families of local Chinese and paying for everybody's entry, it left a sour taste in my mouth when I had to pay double. Even my friends complaints fell on deaf ears and this is the one experience that I remember about Penang that was very disappointing.

Penang Bridge - stretching over 13.5 km, the Penang Bridge is the longest in Southeast Asia. The bridge links the island of Penang to the Malaysian mainland. Very busy in peak times but quite quick to travel over late in the evening as I did when I went over to look at some buildings in a place called Auto City.

Khoo Kongsi - also known as the "Leong San Tong", the history of the Khoo Kongsi spans more than 70 years. Considered the most beautiful temple in Penang, and I definitely agree, it's carved beams are made of the finest would an architectural design which never fails to awe its visitors. I visited this on the evening of my birthday as there was a multinational cultural festival taking place. Definitely a place to visit if going to Penang.

Botanical Gardens - covering an impressive area, the botanical Gardens is an attraction that is not to be missed, not because of its vegetation and tropical plants but for the monkeys. The monkeys linger around visitors eagerly waiting to be fed. Even though they can be quite friendly, be careful if you pull piece of candy out of your bag as the monkeys show no fear when going after food. So, be warned.

Beach Street - some of the best examples of colonial architecture are located in Penang's banking district.

Gurney Drive - to protect the environment and the sanitation problem, the Penang state government established a permanent hawker centre at different places in Penang. Other land the tasty and mouthwatering local foods, some local singers will come to Penang to perform and entertain tourists. Among the hawker centres, Gurney Drive is very popular as hawker centres for local and tourist from abroad. I didn't get the opportunity to go here, but I was not disappointed, as the Chinese family that I went to Penang to visit used their local knowledge and took me a call over Penang to backstreet hawker stalls were delicious food was the goal.

I would like to thank all of the Lee family for their generous hospitality, generous nature, for including me as a member of their family and for being some of the nicest people I have ever met. I hope to see you all again soon. On another note, I thank Stuart and Christina for "keeping the doors open" on Monday and Wednesday night. Much appreciated to you both.

Until next time take good care,

Alan